The long way back home (post trip reflections)

Pics show our journey since October as kindly mapped by Alison and Keith (Liz's folks), arrival in Liverpool coach station, Greg crashed out in Lima Airport, the boots having taken their toil and finally our last night of the trip eating out posh stylee in Cusco.

A long long time ago when I was about 20 years old, I remember a friend of a friend saying that you can access every experience there is to be had without the need to travel looking for it. Well, they were wrong!

I wish I could be more clear about what I wanted to get out of this trip. I definitely wanted some time out from the daily routines to clear my head for thinking space. I've been working f/t since 1992 with only the usual annual leave. I now know it takes at least two to three months to be able to disengage from your daily self to be able to stand back and view yourself in another light. I also wanted to challenge myself physically. For quite a while now I have been convinced that sitting all day at a computer, in a meeting or driving was not what I was designed for. Would I have the stamina at 47 and Greg at 40 to keep on pushing it to trek, climb, bike or paddle everyday? Well, the answer was a sort of yes and no in the end. We definitely needed our rest days, not only from the physical exertsion but also mentally as we geared ourselves up ready for the next adventure.

It was also an opportunity for us, as a couple, to be able to share a big adventure together. It really was 24/7, so you really get to know each other very well. I had heard of couples returning from these trips separately, so am relived to write that we are more committed to a future and a life of adventure together more than ever. Phew!

The world is small really. You can now Skype your mum from a little village in Laos, text your pals from Everset summit, and whilst I was there, you most certainly could do this from the main drag in the Khumbu. Starbucks and McDonalds seem to appear as is by stealth in the most unusual of places. Toned down to fit in with surrounding buildings, it took me almost a week to realise there is a McDonalds in a corner of the Plaza de Armes in Cusco. Of course, we avoided these evil empires as much as possible (although they are good for toilets), but do admit to spending an evening in Arequipa in such an establishment because we couldn't find anywhere else at the time selling fresh coffee! (Yes, I know that it grows there - see blog entry for explanation). I blame Lonely Planet (LP) for this shrinkage of the planet. Love it or loathe it, it often is the tome every traveller was using (including us). OK, so there are other travel guides, but it sometimes seemed that there was almost a set itinery that the majority of travellers were abiding to, and that was the one in the LP as layed out in the places not to miss section.! We did sometimes find the tone of their writing a bit patronising of the local culture (laugh at not with)
and there was one bit in the SE Asia Guide that just went on about how good a place was now that you could get a descent cappuchino (Italian). I mean pleeeese - this isn't in the spirit of discovering local delicacies etc is it? I realise I've just contradicted myself here having written about coffee in Starbucks. Oh well.....

And yes, the world is big and far away places are distant and out of mind. Despite economic downturns etc, we are rich on a global scale beyond our wildest belief. Sure the UK is not perfect, but we do better at stuff like democracy, public infrastructure, welfare, health, education (at least we try). All the things that really impact on the quality of life for most people. Seeing situations where this is delivered poorly, makes you realise that we take a lot of this stuff for granted and can be complacent about it. So what I mean about big, is that this stuff really isn't shared out yet for the greater good. Many world citizens have no power or say in what goes on around them, or if they do, it's lip service. Despite having amazing mobile coverage and being able to buy chocolate doughnuts in Namache Bazzar, there are kids with malnutrition still in Nepal and one of the most chaotic governments (or no government) to speak of. Priorities?

So what did we learn? Greg told me that the time away has made his brain become more creative. I would agree with him. Many a conversation was had on all sorts of plans and schemes we/he could embark on when back in Blighty. These plans were thought out in great detail (a Greg thing), at some point it looked like we would be juggling about three business, become property magnets and still keep the day jobs. But, this was an important time of reflection, and we are doing our utmost to keep that momentum of change going. It may not be fast, and at the moment feels like "baby steps", but we'll get there.

I kept thinking about a lyric from the "The Great Dominions" by the Teardrop Explodes. "I'm only concerned with looking concerned.....". That was me before we left and how exhausting it is. I'm sure I'll have to take that mantle on again in order to survive the next few months, but I know I need to start working at not being too "Bent out of Shape" again (Teardrop fans will get this).

So, we've been back about five weeks now, and you know, it's not too bad. Admitidly, we've been racing all over the place biking and climbing in the big yellow van. I've spent time with my nieces and nephews which is always huge fun. For me, the sabattical doesn't finish until October. Greg, on the other hand, is hunting down work in painting and decorating across Merseyside ansd preferably North Wales. I think this gradual assimilation into real life has probably been good for us. The houses are still rented out, we still have no income, and will I ever get round to writing the book ("My middle age gap year")? Who knows.

Liz

Might keep the blog going until October as we've already visited lots of interesting places already.
Also, was planning on writing th ecomplete "anorak list" on bits of kit that were super useful.

Riding in Peru aka Extreme mountain biking

A days montain biking in Arequipa began with a very bumpy ride up the flank of Pichu Pichu volcano to 4200m. We bailed out the jeep with our guide "Walter" and began a 30km descent back to town. It was mainly dirt road with 3 off road breaks but as it was all downhill I wasn`t complaining. We stopped for lunch with local cheese, olives and advacado while our two local boys lounged on a terrace and were very happy with their lot. Walter did praise the drivers skill as a roadie but alas they both admitted his skill of eating and drinking now eclipsed that though neither seemed too concerned. If you ever make it too Arequipa look up Naturaleza Activa just to meet two very happy blokes if nothing else. The second town in Peru for us was Cusco. Do I seek out ancient ruins and head to the lofty heights of Machu Pichu to bask in the glory of ancient civilisations. Sod that, not when I found out about the local biking on offer. Our first day was riding in the Sacred Valley on the Maras/Maray trail. Liz has of course provided me with lots of names and details but who really cares about that when you have a Kona Stinky Six to bomb down dirt tracks on at ridiculous speeds. In the morning we rode along dirt roads through wheat fields looking at glaciated mountains, which was I admit one of the most beautiful valleys I have seen in a trip full of beautiful valleys. We then had a look at some very clever ruins then stopped for lunch. The main event was the afternoon, but not before we dangled Liz by the legs into a pond to pull out a lamb that had fallen in. The 3 snot nosed kids were bleating more than the animal and a drunken farmer was of no use. The lamb was pulled to safety, hugs all round and we set off at a blistering pace to pre-Incan salt pans at Salinevas. All you had to remember was to fall left into the mountain not right off it into the gorge. Downhill sillyness and my back was very gratefull to the full susser. Great day out for the sedate or sadistic whichever pulls your plonker really. The next day was the main event really. A bit tired we clambered back into the van and drove to 4400m to start 2000m of descent on the former Mega Avalanche World Cup Downhill run. Suitably lacking body armour we set off following Carlos our guide and both immediately baulked at the first steep drop. Things rapidly improved though as we picked up the pace and hurtled down. Liz hurtled a bit too much over the handle bars but fortunately she landed on her head, so no harm done! We set off again speeding along and one of us speeded off the bike and landed in a heap and it wasn`t me or Carlos. Luckily for Liz she did land in a heap. About 3 inches to her left was a 5 metre drop onto a jumble of boulders and a serious hospital visit. A few tears were shed but our guide pulled himself together and said maybe we would only do the one run today. There follwed more steep sections and gorgeous single track spitting you out onto the road at points before dropping through the trees again on the steepest trails I`ve ridden. This was a great course and really fun riding. In the afternoon we repeated the downhills of the day before and rode them twice as fast and the steep bits were no where near as steep now we had Mega Avalanche.. Thanks to Amazona Explorer and Carlos the guide with our driver Mr Luna who dissapeared off on the bikes both days whilst we had lunch for a little blast. They are not the cheapest in town but worth every penny for top bikes and service. Liz you owe me my second run at full pace, even if you did save a lamb! Greg


Postscript: Apologies about sideways video - will try and sort out on return. This was really steep honest.Liz

Goodbye South America

So here we are sitting around in Lima airport. There`s a 17 hour wait until our Miami (and then London) flight, so we are trying to kill some time interneting and finding a cozy corner to crash out in. Not much on the latter so far.
I made a promise to myself 10 years ago that I would come back to Cusco, as we breezed in and out very quickly that year with a tight schedule containing lots of climbing. Like anywhere you re-visit, I was bracing myself for disapointment, expecting to find the place more commercialised and one step further away from the magic people actually come to find here. I was not disapointed at all.
Cusco felt much cleaner, more organised and less busy than in 2001. Maybe that`s because we were not visiting in the peak season (June-July). The Inca presence was still there in the street names which many have been changed back the original Quechua, and of course in the stones acting as foundations for the fine colonial buildings, but which were really parts of the original Incan palaces and temples. The Quechua legend sees Cusco as the naval at the centre of the earth (that`s what it`s name means anyhow).
Anyhow, as I had done for every stage of our trip so far, Greg and I have been listing the main things that we noticed or found interesting about Peru (and a little bit of Chile too).

1. The economy of Peru has fared well over the past 10 years, and you can really feel this in a much more organised infrastructure. H&S must be quite rigid as all “workers” wore safety gear and protective clothing. Compare this to India of Nepal! The streets were spotless and put Liverpool to shame. In all the town plazzas we visited there was very noticable steet cleaners out there and doing it.
2. Roadworks – lots of it going on even on the most remote mountain top roads. It wasn`t even the end of the tax year.
3. Lots of churches with statues of holy people in them. I mean loads of statues and pictures. Very ornate, but the statues spook me out. They even wear real clothing. I tried hard not to stare into the eyes of the statues in an irrational fear that they were going to summon thunderbolts to strike me down!
4. Peruvians like their meat (including guinea pig and alpaca). The concept of vegetarian is not understood. I ask you, why the hell would you not eat meat?
5. You read all kinds of stuff about bag slashers and pick pockets before you arrive in Peru. Then your eyes see all windows have bars on them (be that ornate) and barbed wire in any gaps. But, I can`t actually say that anywhere we visited felt too risky. Some Peruvians had told us about people following tourists who have huge cameras hanging off their necks, and we heard about dodgy taxi drivers taking you to a cashpoint of their choice. In the end, we felt that common sense was the main thing, and you would be no less at risk in any big UK city if flaunting you wealth.
6. Loads of old buildings and ruins. Although, not that old really as the Incas were at their height about 500 years ago. In contrast, NZ didn`t get the concept old.
7. Latin music in all it`s shapes and forms. This hit us from the minute we landed in Santiago and has followed us throughout our travels on the continent. Regular salsa type sounds to really cool Latin punk-ska, and of course the obligatory pan pipes and “Flight of the Condor!” Latin music is a huge scene, or which, many of us (I`m talking about myself here) are really unaware of apart from Shakira, Manu Chau and Ricky Martin!
8. Lots of dogs everywhere, who mostly seem good humoured. Unlike Nepal , where they all looked the same except for three colour schemes, these dogs come in all shapes and sizes. And of course……
9. Streets full of shagging dogs!
10. Really cheap taxis and collectivos (little minibus that does local runs). Crikey, talk about stack èm high.
11. Really colourful houses. Impressive combinations of ochre, olive green, mustard and sky blue. Maybe it`s the strong sunlight.
12. Knitted hats on lambs! I ask you, how far do some people go to make money from allowing their photo to be taken?
13. Incredibably glamorous news readers- short skirts and cleavages.
14. Our, I mean my, rubbish Spanish. We`ve had it lucky so far, and our usual British lack of other languages has not really been too much of a problem. However, they really all do speak Spanish here…..and to visit here, so must we!
15. Oh that hot sun, or is it the altitude.
16. Coffee. You`d have thought that the coffee in Peru must be pretty good. After all, it`s one of the known coffee producing nations. Not in Peru itself though. Coffee is exported as a cash crop, and the local themselves drink Nescafe. Ah the sacrilage. (They actually drink a lot of herbal teas).
17. Super friendly people with big smiles. Peruvians got the joke when we turned the question, "Where are you from?" back on them.

Liz

Oh yes, this year marks the 100 year anniversary of Machu Pichu being discovered.

Ice mummies, earthquakes and volcanos

Yes, where else but Arequipa, Peru. This colonial city is Peru´s second biggest next to Lima, yet it still sparkles after days bussing through desert. It lies in a fertile valley which after so long just seeing sand and rocks is a relief on the eyes. The city is surrounded by 12 volcanos with El Misti (5571m) looming over the Plaza de Armas and the Cathedral. El Misti is another perfect volcano shape, just like Taranaki in New Zealand. It´s a perfect cone with snow on top - and sometimes a bit of smoke too I believe. The older colonial buildings are quite grand and are all built in the local white volcanic rock called sillar.The crystals in the rock give it a glittery feel. We felt the Spanish influence very strongly, and mused how it sometimes felt like we could be in Southern Spain. People´s faces were starting to change as well, as there was now a more prominent indigenous influence.
So what to do. We were dying to climb El Misti, but after four months below 3000m felt it was just a bit daft launching ourselves at it without any acclimitisation. How I wish acclimitisation was a culminative process (and aerobic fitness too). So, we decided to go visit "Juanita" (a nickname)the 500 year old ice maiden currently residing in the Museo Santuarios Andinos, whilst we worked out our next move. Poor Juanita was only about 13 years old when sacrificed on top of another volcano, Ampato (6288m). The neighbouring volcano had been erupting meaning that the Gods were displeased, so some appeasement with the Gods had to made. It was known that she was from an important family because of the quality of her clothes, and also that she had to travel to Cusco to be blessed by the Inca King before travelling on to Ampato. What a journey - that was an overnight bus ride for us. and what a great feat climbing so high. Ampato was clear of snow at the time because of the eruption, but after this calmed, the usual freezing ice and snow set in with Juanita only being found in a subsequent eruption in the 1990s when the snow surrounding her again melted.
Still undecided, we walked around the Cathedral (shameless wealth displayed by the church in my opinion) and also visited Monasterio de Santa Catalina. Founded in 1580,this nunnery takes up a whole block within the city surrounded by high walls. It appears that this was some sort of closed order as there was hardly any comings and goings with the outside world until 1970 when it opened it´s doors to the public. Probably to raise funds! (Skeptic me) We took lots of pictures there as some of their colour schemes were great and Greg has plans to replicate on any future home we have! Watch this space and check out the pics when I uploead next week!
So now we have a plan. We decided to do some downhill mountain biking on Pichu Pichu (another volcano) which Greg is going to write about, and we booked ourselves onto a 2 day trek into the Colpa Canyon which is supposed to be the second deepest canyon in the world at 3191m. What a packed 2 days - totally knackered at the end of it. It started with a 3am pick up and then a 3 hour drive with the road rising to 4900m. Easiest 4900m I´ve ever done - but it did hurt. After breakfast in Chivay, we went to see the condors cruising (with about another 100 folks) at Crux de Condor. But, it wasn´t wasted and the birds put on a good display and swooped in really close. Much discussion between myself and Greg as to which has the biggest wingspan, albatross (as seen in NZ) or condor.
Then the trekking began, and it was no picnic in the park. Our guide, Salome was really interesting and explained a good deal about the plants on the way ie what you could eat, what you couldn´t, medicinal qualities and plants used for dying clothes. We checked out the cochineal beetles on the cacti. She also told us about all the customs of the village folk and how they had incorporated the old religion into Christianity. I like this. She explained how a family would worship both Pachamama (Mother Earth) and the Christian God in parellel. After going down in to the canyon bottom and up and again and across, we descended into an oasis called Sangalle to spend the night. We only got to see Sangalle from above, as we arrived in the dark and left in the dark at 5am the next morning. Following the trail of headtorches up the slope, this truly reminded me of Alpine starts, but we were only up early as there still so much more to pack in. Three hours of oxygen deplition and exhaustion later, we arrived at the rim of the canyon and had breakfast in a village called Cabanaconde. How welcome was that. I´ve never had such good scrambled egg on toast. Even the cocoa tea was starting to taste good. The trip`ended on a real high, however, as we journeyed back to Chivay to soak in the hot spring pools at La Calera. Beautiful, clean pools, it was funny to swim at altitude. Reccomended! The buffet afterwards was good too - all you could eat :)
So that´s the ice mummy and volcanos covered. The earthquake happened twice on our night of arrival, as I woke to feel my bunk shaking (deja vue from Christchurch). With great excitement I asked Greg in the morning if he had felt it too. "No you spanner," he replied, "That was me shaking the bunk because you were snoring!"
Liz

Pics show Plaza de Armes (Arequipa), the Colpa Canyon trekking team, that condor moment, inside the Santa Catalina monastry and starting our mtn bike downhill on Pichu Pichu with Walter our guide (El Misti in the background)

Chile

Monday 16th May was the longest day of both of lives so far – all 40 hours of it. Yes, that´s the day we flew from NZ to Chile and crossed the international date line. How jet lagged was I (Liz). Greg fared a little better. We stayed in a fairly boho area in the Barrio Brasil part of Santiago and recovered by exploring the local streets and bars, and checking out some of the city´s parks and central shopping area. Coolest place was the bar we stumbled into on the first night of arrival. It was like stepping back in time. Really dark with latin music playing. Old left wing political posters were pasted onto the walls as wallpaper. Old Che was very evident. We ordered the dish of the day which was one of our best South American meals so far. Greg´s been on a bit of a meat fest, whilst I have been eating mostly cheese due to my poor grasp of Spanish! However, on this day, Greg tucked into a huge steak and I got a really tasty bean and pasta stew soupy thing, Yum. We had to move our table as salsa dancing was about to start. You´d have thought they´d laid it all on for the tourists.
Barrio Brasil is a lovely square with a kiddie´s play area, grass, big trees and park benches outlining it´s perimeter. On these benches, I am convinced that Santiago´s student population conduct their romancing and dating. We saw kisses and clinches galore, and even a few tears there. I wonder how many babies have been conceived on them!
We really wanted to go to Patagonia, but our timing was too late, so we decided to head north for Peru and visit Arequipa and Cusco before home. Thus said, we then took the 26 hour bus ride from Santiago to Arica in the north of Chile. Not as bad as expected really, and we did manage to sleep. What a trip though threw the Atacama desert. I believe it´s the driest in the world, and it really looked like some God forsaken place. That´s the weird thing about deserts isn´t it – so opposite to life supporting, yet so beautiful in their own way too.

An afternoon and overnight stop in Arica found us walking along the Pacific coast again watching wakeboarders framed against a background of moored ships, boats and submarines. Sublime.
Next stop the Peruvain border……

Liz

WWOOF

WWOOF

Willing workers on organic farms. Not woof as in a dog though Neal and Nicky who we stayed with had Charlie the rescue dog who was far too chilled out to woof at anyone. We were in Eltham in Taranaki. Rolling grass land full of cows with a huge snow capped volcano dominating the landscape. Well it was for the first day till the clouds rolled in and we never saw it again. Black volcanic sand beaches lined the coast. We mainly undertook gardening in there HUGE garden complete with stream and ducks and loads of trees. Nicky is a world champion tree climber and has competed around the world. She made climbing up ropes look very easy indeed and when me and Liz tried we made it look very hard till we practiced a bit and got the hang of jumaring in a style up a tree. Neal was a lawyer and went to work in his tracksuit pants unless he was in court. Normally at home its only the accused who wears a tracky. A man with no doubts the All Blacks would win the Rugby World Cup and holds football in the same disregard as many Kiwis. Mind you when the have a section on the sports program called,
"Smash 'em bro'" and smashed they do get it puts our puffy over paid prima donnas to shame.(no offence to puffy people unless you play football and fall down like a wet rag)
It was lovely to have a week off travelling and sleep in a proper bed and get away from the tourist trail for a while and see how a small town gets along and to eat a fantastic steak instead of Tofu with Liz. Good Luck for Singapore Nicky hope you both have fun. There is a train station for Neal. Check out the Chicken Curry stall opposite the ticket kiosk its super good in a city full of really good food.



Greg

Eat, drive and eat some more

Eat, drive and eat some more

Oh yes, how we enjoyed our food in NZ. Our skinny waif-like selves burst forth again now that we were self-catering and back in the land of European food! Top of the list was Greg’s obsession with Hokey Pokey. Unfortunately, this wasn’t some weird deviant behaviour, but cinder toffee coated in chocolate mmmm yum. We also enjoyed Afghan biscuits, Fejoa fruits (should be national fruit instead of impostor Kiwi) and lots of fish & chips!! (The fish having names I’d never heard of, but tasted good).
But, hey, since we’re leaving NZ tomorrow, I thought I’d do our usual summary on things we thought were funny, unusual etc.

Driving. Yup we pretty much circumnavigated the whole of the South Island by road, and then up to Auckland. Our trusty 20 year car did us proud. Just a little TLC in the form of oil and water, we sold it for $NZ600 yesterday which ain't bad as it only cost us $NZ900. Driving here is nimps. The roads are just like two lane A roads and there are hardly any other cars about. Tail-gating , however, is de rigour, but didn’t seem to be as aggressive as back home. It got more tense as we travelled north and the population density increased, so by the time we hit Auckland, everyone was ready to wipe you off the road – just like at home really.

Kiwi TV and adverts. Well, for a start their adverts are on too long, but there are a few gems in there. Straight talking tell it like it is stuff. Really playing on the male psyche with drink driving stuff “You’re a bloody idiot!” Yes, can’t argue with that really. There’s also a yoghurt marketed at men called Mammoth. It says only men can eat it with great shovel like spoon action and each carton has advice on things real men should and shouldn’t do – like not share an umbrella no matter how desperate. Moa Beer – “…you can buy it in shops.” And it’s true – you can.
Sports programme – how I (Liz) really can’t stand these at home. But here, check out The Crowd Went Wild on You Tube, it’s so entertaining. Can’t tell if they actually have a script, but I was riveted, even though I have no understanding on any of the sports shown. That’s another refreshing thing, it wasn’t all about football, it showed a really diverse range, including women’s games. (They did give the vote to women years before Britain).
Kids with bare feet. No, this is not poverty related, kids genuinely feel restricted in shoes. Saw them playing in the street, in supermarkets, in school. They start wearing shoes for high school according to Nickie our Wwoof host.
Coffee obsession. Yes, never fear, you will never be far away from a fresh and expensive brew.
Shopkeepers say “How are you?’ or “How’s your day going?” instead of hello. Always throws me, as I think this might be someone I’m supposed to know (it’s the reserved Brit bit coming out).
There are sections in shops labelled Manchester. Where, I ask, is Liverpool or Leeds? Guess what it is – think industrial revolution. Yes, it’s cotton and linen. Funny or what!
All bad things are not native eg stoats, possums, deadly nightshade, brambles, gorse. It’s all there taking the country over.
Well funky dressed older ladies in even the smallest of towns.
Adventure sports – yeah right. You just pay to participate really (not that I’m cynical).
Kiwis are really good at bigging things up. “Historic train station” sign and “historic plaque”.

Apart from the milder climes, the best thing about NZ is the people. They’re straight talking, tell it like it is and really friendly & helpful. They have good dry sense of humour, with a liberal dose of irony (just like Brits I believe). People are not obsessed with money, houses, cars, just looking forward to the weekend when they can take the kids to the beach, camp and have a barbie. The important, and simple pleasures.
We loved it here and will be back!
Total no. of night's camping = 43
Liz
www.picasaweb.google.com/lizzypatkay

A Typical Outdoor Trip in NZ

So you wake up at Cannibal Cove campsite and take a tramp (walk) along Dead Horse Road to Misery Hut. After a quick lunch, make your way to the summitt of Mount Hopeless.On the way cross over the bridge at Dead Man's Creek, cross Butcher's Flat and spend the night at Cowshed Bay.

Maori names are far more poetic and fit the landscape superbly, even if you can't pronounce them. The poineers had a lot of new places to name when they arrived - looks like they became exhausted witht the creative effort!
Liz

Kayaking the Abel Tasman Tramp

Bit of a downer on tramping at this point, we headed north to kayak on the Abel Tasman route. We both had been really excited about doing this - and we were right to be!
A freedom rental for three days, we persuaded them to give us a kayak each instead of a double, which would only lead to domestic strife. We were given a full briefing by the staff and supplied with safety equipment (pump, flare) and a map of the coast line. We packed our tent, food and spare, dry clothes on the hatches. Yippee. - Expeditioning in a boat. The forecast looked good, but we were told to expect it to be a bit choppy in a section called the "Mad Mile". Launching at Marahau we headed northwards to camp at Mosquito Bay. So far so good, we lunched on a sandy beach and then headed for the Mad Mile. Choppy! Flippin swell of 2-3 metres. Bigger than anything I'd ever paddled in before. We decided to turn around (a problem in itself as you don't want to get caught side on)and go back to safer waters for a think. A conversation then followed with a guy who had just emerged out of the Mad Mile. We asked how long the section of swell lasted, did it get worse etc. He said, you seem aware of the situation by your questions, if you have the stamina to do it go for it. So we did. 50 minutes later we emerged at Anchorage Bay, exhausted and drained. We were not "paddling fit" and we simply knackered. I can still remember feeling totally s**t scared sitting in my little boat at the bottom of those troughs with a three metre wall of water above me. We found out later that the forecast had been changed at midday and that that swell was the worst that section only rarely ever got. Shame it was the day we visited.
Not to be put off we had a good night's sleep and set off north towards yesterday's destination. The sea was as flat as pancake all day and the sun shone. Beautiful and totally chilled out. Still both tired we decided to go back to Anchorage for the night and then paddle back to our launch pint on day three. The Mad Mile could well have been on another planet on our return and we were amazed at how quickly we paddled through that section. So, would we do it again. Ask Greg!
(The pictures on Picasa are from the times when the sea was calm as 1. the new camera is not waterproof and 2. if it gets a bit rocky you need 2 hands to steady yourself).
No of nights camping = 29

www.picasaweb.google.com/lizzypatkay

Wanaka

Wanaka is the location location "des res" area of NZ if you like your outdoor sports. It's bigger neighbour, Queenstown is full of bungy jumping and other packaged excitement, but Wanaka is a place one (ie me, Liz) could live in.
In our 6 days in the area we managed to fit in our first tramp of the trip (that's hiking in Brit speak), mountain biking and some climbing. If we here over winter this would include snow sports too. Since this was Greg's third visit to NZ, I took the steer from him, so when checking out the local tramps, we saw that there was a DOC mountain hut called the Liverpool Hut perched at the bottom of Mount Liverpool itself. Not much choice really it had to be done. However, when checking out how to climb the peak, we realised that it was a full on mountaineering route and our ice axes and crampons are at home in the UK, so a tramp to the hut we did and gazed out at the glaciers above saying what we would do if we manage to come back. The hut was in the Mount Aspiring National Park, and to be honest it was not what I expected. Most tramps at a low level follow valleys which are heavy vegetated (the bush). The path follows slippy tree route strewn tracks with equally slimy slabs of schist rock - yuk. The sections where it opened out for a view were brilliant, but we spent a lot of time just looking at tree trunks. Were we spoilt in Nepal?
The huts, however, are a dream. Clean (compared to European Alps), well organised and all supplied with loo paper! We even got discounts in NZ Alpine Club huts with our BMC membership cards - hurrah!
The wildlife is also entertaining for this is the domain of the Kea. Kea really are the naughty boys of the bird world. Big dark green mountain parrots. They gang up near huts and campsites in the twilight of evening and mornings, swooping down low and squawking a shrill shriek like sound to each (like calling "they're over here"). All very Alfred Hitchock. I actually found them quite scary. In the Aspiring Hut, the warden was telling us stories on how they had robbed people's boots left outside, and then they bring stuff back a few days later. The warden had left a mirror out for them to play with. They took it away and then returned it a week later. On the morning we stayed, we woke to the sounds of them tapping at the roof and entrance door of the hut (like they were trying to get us). I saw them having a fight over a pair of slipper liners that had been left out, and someone else told us a story about a mate who had been bivying out who had had his nose pecked at by them. Explain that one in A&E.
The DOC seems to be something of an institution in NZ. Their level of signage is very conscientious and informative (2 people only at a time on this bridge or do not attempt this tramp unless you are an experienced tramper). It contrasted greatly to the no signage above the huts. This is where you are on your own and true mountaineering skill come into the fore. Someone explained that they have to do this as there had been a well known accident a few years previously with a lookout platform full of school kids collapsing. Hard way to learn.
Further north up the west coast, we went up to the Welcome Hut so we could have free and hard earned soak in a hot spring. More bloody trees, but worth it for the rewarding soak in the evening on our own surrounded by snow capped peaks. Pity about the sandflies!

No of nights camping = 21

Pics show Liz in the hot springs outside the Welcome Hut, Greg climbing at Hospital Flats, Wanaka, view of Mount Aspiring from the Liverpool Hut, outside the hut and a section of the awful slippy path up to get there.

Fiordland

Greg says that the Maoris have a legend that the Gods put sandflies in Fiordland to stop people living there as it is so beautiful. You're not kidding!
Check out the map as there aren't any roads into this area, except for the one up to Milford Sound. I think it would be much more exciting to access by the sea in a kayak, but that will have to wait for another trip.
Beautiful DOC camping spot on the road to Milford Sound at Henry's Creek on Lake Te Anau. We checked out the sound and envied the folks going on scenic cruises, which were a bit beyond our pocket, meaning we wouldn't be able to eat for at least a week after our trip! Unfortunately, the only kayaking on the sound was a guided trip and there was no freedom rental (on your own) available. Went for a bush walk to Misery Creek (as you do) and ate loads of food.
Total no of nights camping = 14

Pics show views of Lake Te Anau, Mitre Peak across Milford Sound, a cute little bird that followed us on our walk and parked up before entering the Homer Tunnel.

Convelesing in the Catlins (and Invercargill)

So south we go, heading for an area of wild sea-scapes and rolling hills. The Catlins was named after a sea captain who, apparently, bought the land from local Maoris. In the end he never got round to visiting the place, but they still named it after him. Pity - his loss!
The plant life and wildlife are starting to individualise themselves to NZ now. Loads of wiggly trees they call cabbage trees, and pod carp forest, which I (Liz) think are tree ferns. There is a notable lack of indigenous mammals. Plenty of imported sheep, cows and antler-less red deer, but nothing big that originated locally. However, they make up for this with birds, and the morning chorus is impressive to say the least. The little birds are so tame as well, coming in really close to you. When we were in the Catlins at Curio Bay we saw five yellow-eyed penguins, which you should be impressed by as this is the rarest penguin species on the planet! (Needless to say neither of us had even heard of them before arriving here).Highpoints were camping in Department of Conservation (DOC) campsites. The DOC have little camping spots in some of the most beautiful and isolated areas. They only provide at a minimum, a loo and a water supply. Paying is an honesty box and there is usually only room for about 6-10 tents. However, it does mean that you can pitch your tent right next to a beautiful lake,or right by the sea. This would all be brilliant and perfect if it wasn't for the sandflies. These are the midgies of South Island, and they don't seem to mind the sun, breezes or anything - boy do their bites itch.Oh the illicit pleasure of scratching.
From the Catlins we moved on south to Invercargill and stopped at Sandfly Bay for a few days of comfort camping on a good site. Sunshine, more eating and Greg's ear is ready to play out again. So back on the road-trip.
Total no of nights camping 10.

Pictures show 1. black tree fern canopy 2. Petrified Forest at Curio Bay 3 and 4 Strange rock formations Purakaunui Bay 5. Nugget Head Lighthouse

East coast road trip

Half a day's drive from Christchurch and we land on the Otago Peninsular just outside of Dunedin. They call Dunedin a city, but it's more of a market town UK stylee. Driving is a breeze, simple two lane roads, no hold ups and the occasional overtaking lane. Greg explains this is down to the much lower population density.
There's something about the light here. I'm not sure if it's to do with the extra UV (40% extra I'm told). The sky seems huge and quite dominating, the light is really bright and the edges of shadows are sharp and well defined. It reminds us of places such as St Ives or Pembroke, so maybe it's something to do with reflected (or refracted) light from the sea - an abundance of a certain wavelength or something. Anyhow, speculate as you do, it's quite amazing, and I do actually think some of the photos have captured this to some extent.
Otago is brimming with wildlife. In our three days we saw albatross, blue eyed penguin (smallest species) and NZ fur seal. We actually nearly tripped over the seal who was just plonked on the beach next to where we were sitting. We were there for about 20 minutes before Greg saw it about three metres away!
The weather was great and then bad, then great again. This seems to be a pattern here. Sure, we've had some really wet days, but they only seem to last for a short period before the sun comes out again and you can dry your tent and washing. Not quite as depressing as those gray overcast weeks on end we are used to at home.
Greg's ear still causing problems and we both feel like a bit of a rest from more adventurous activities. We are both enjoying our food really eating for England to make up for the past 6 months. So, we decide to head on south with our new tent and spend a few days in the Catlins.

Land of the Long White Cloud

So we landed in Christchurch three weeks after the quake. We tried to get diverted to Auckland as a gesture of good intention, but the airline wanted to charge us an additional 90 pounds each airport tax. Imagine how many weeks accommodation that adds up to!
It was a funny feeling arriving in a community that was definitely in a group "post traumatic" situation and I (Liz) really felt sorry for the city and it's people. We stayed at a backpackers right on the edge of the sealed off area with collapsed buildings surrounding us on all sides. The older, stone buildings had been hit the most as they can't flex. This meant lots of collapsed churches. Evidently, all buildings had been inspected within the first 48 hours and given a green (habitable) or red (condemn) sign. You could see what a really livable city it is as well. Big parks with mature trees, a little brook running through the city centre (sans shopping trolley, big wide roads, great cafe scene - just lovely really.
The earthquake itself was not that high on the Richter scale, but the destruction had been caused because the epicentre was directly under the city centre and not very deep down, 5Km I believe. There were also after shocks on varying magnitude. A 4.5 tremor scared the life out of us after our dinner on the first evening. It lasted about 6 seconds. Then two more in the night waking me up with my top bunk swaying thinking the ceiling would crash in on us (Greg slept through this). The folks in the hostel talked of everything rumbling and the contents of shelves crashing around them. They ran out into the garden, but couldn't keep their balance because of the movement! I couldn't help thinking that surely each quake weakens a building's structure and there were indeed cracks in the walls.
All around town we saw piles of a gray powder type substance. I thought everyone was planning extensions and that it was builder's cement - wrong. This stuff was also a product of the quake and was called liquefaction. Neither of us had heard of this before, so dear readers if anyone could shed some light on what this stuff is and how it relates to plate tectonics we would be very interested - thanks. Apparently it just oozes out of the earthquake cracks in the ground as a type of gray sludge. I comes out of the vents under houses, gutters and grids. The piles were where people had brushed it up ready for bagging away.
The people of Christchurch are real corkers. We were impressed and touched by how the community had pulled together and the whole place had a real buzz of activity as the big clear up was actioned. There were also government TV adds about everyone else in NZ thinking of Christchurch and that everyone should be talking to neighbours, checking everyone is OK and just finding someone to talk to. Quite touching stuff really and perceptive of the government as they obviously wanted to reduce poor mental health problems and community morale.
We set about trying to get Greg better (pain in ear) and to buy a car. I was very happy three days later to leave as we had bought our new motor (all 900 $NZ - about 450 quid)and were about to start our big NZ road trip.
It would be great to see Christchurch back on its feet again and to walk down it's high streets visiting all the nice restaurants and shops :(
Liz

Postscript July 2011: Liquefaction is created when ground water becomes under pressure due to tetonic shifts. It occurs in clay soils. The pressure created by the earth movement mixes the water and silt from the clay together. Under pressure, this mixture needs to escape through openings/cracks in the earth's surface. This gray sludge can cause a lot of damage. So there you go!

Crook down under

.






Pics show euclyptus trees at Camel's Hump, three in a bed with Mikl Law in Sydney, the Three Sisters (Blue Mountains), bouldering at Lindfield, Sydney, the tome itself, Sydney opera House and the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

We were never supposed to go to Australia really, but then our ticket agency said we couldn't fly directly to NZ from Singapore. So,we hastily planned for a two week trip. I,(Liz) had never been before, but Greg had spent some time living and working there, so the plan was to arrive in Melbourne and then fly out via Sydney. We wanted to do a bit of tourism and a bit of climbing. Before we left, I had made contact with some local climbers via the Chockstone website (Victoria climber's site), just to see if anyone wanted to take us under their wings and play out with us. Aussies are so cool and generous. First we had Mike in Melbourne saying he'd play out for a day around Melbourne, and then Mike Law said he'd put us up in Sydney and loan us gear. You guys rock!
Melbourne is a really nice city - the place you could live in, but maybe not too exciting as a tourist. We went out to St Kilda (suburb)to see Greg's old house which had been knocked down. But, this place was like Lark Lane by the sea, or maybe Waterloo (only L.pool based readers will understand this bit) where you can see the sea and there's loads more to do - internantional gig circuit, multicultural restaurants, funfair etc. My nose was running all day, and boy did I feel proper rough the next day when we had planned to meet Mike for some climbing.An early start, Mike picked us up from the city centre and took us to a place out in the outskirts called Camel's Hump. It was so so cold, and I don't think we were expecting that level of cool. I was chilled to the bone, but did follow Mike up a little arete route. Then I bailed out ("not well")and let Greg have a go at some trad leading! I'll let him explain this when he's next on the blog. Mike was just brimming with enthusiasm and confidence. He was a really great person to hang out with. I even saw Hanging Rock from the top of the Hump - you know the setting for the film and book.
An overnight bus ride to Sydney (7pm - 7am) found us making our way across Sydney to Mike Law's house. Mike didn't know us from Adam, but had left us the keys, offered the spare bedroom, offered gear and guidebooks and was simply just lovely and generous. Oh yeah, and did I mention he is one of the leading protagonists in Sydney/Blue Mountains scene. His name is all over the Blue Mountains guidebook. We were getting very scared and humble. How do we mention that we don't really climb above 19 Aussie grade?
I was still not good, but dragged myself around Sydney on a sight-seeing mission. Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Opera House, Manly Ferry. How I slept that night! The next day, we (well Greg actually as I was still crook) went bouldering at a place called Lindfield, one of the northern Sydney suburbs. Evedently, Sydney itself has loads of urban rock including sea cliffs. The following day, we took the train up to Katoomba in the Blue Mountains. This is the bit where Australia really does become upside down. You see, the Blue Mountains aren't really mountains at all, the towns/roads/trains etc are all on a plateau and this has an edge (cliffs) of about 200-400m (I need to check this)dropping down to lush green valley below. These valleys are the wilderness areas, whereas perched on top are regular streets, houses and shops. It's all very strange.
So now it's day 2 in Katoomba, and Greg is starting to come down with the lurgi. We set off for a walk to see The Three Sisiters, but only saw a lot of mist (it was raining). However, on encouragement, we returned in the evening and saw them in beautiful evening sunset, which captured the red glow of the rocks perfectly. The next day, Greg was really not well, so I went for a walk to the Wentworth Falls and then along the National Pass. The Pass is a trail cut into the cliff face at about half height. Below, you are aware of dense bush and vegetation with birds calling. Above, you can see people's houses. Strange. It's my big regret that we didn't do any climbing, as we had an area in mind and a few extra days might have seen us well enough to enjoy ourselves. We left the next day to go back to Sydney. We met up with my long distant cousin, Alison, and discussed the family's Japanese connections. Very interesting. Then back at Mike's we got taken on a tour around Sydney by night. What an amazing city. I love the older style houses, which remind me a little of the UK, but somehow cleaner and brighter. The waterfront suburbs were so "des res". Thanks Mike we really appreciated your time.
Such a short trip, we left the next morning to fly to Christchurch, NZ. My short trip made me realise that Oz is so big, it would require a whole visit just on it's own. The Northern Terroratories look amazing and I would still like to get to the Arapiles. So much climbing to do! Looking forward to better health in NZ.

Postscrip: I'm trying to get the pictures onto the Picasa gallery, but need to find how I can shrink them as they are currently too big and the uploading time is prohibitive.