So we've got to Hanoi at Tet and now we've got to make our way to Cat Ba Island which is in the Halong Bay area.
Ha Long Bay region is a vast expanse of uniquie karst limestone towers that rise from the waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. I believe there are over 2000 of these craggy islands, some of which have vegetation free faces, and so are suitable for climbing. Many of these faces rise directly from the sea, so are really popular for deep water soloing (DWS). This is free climbing (without a rope or protection) and dropping into the water when finished or falling off. This is not quite our bag yet, as these routes tend to be overhanging and quite difficult in order to safely clear the rock face on your way down.However, other faces can be accessed from sandy beaches, and there was one developed inland crag at Butterfly valley.
So off we set using the very good directions from the Slo Pony website (local climbing agency who set up all the routes in area and provide tuition). Basically, the travel was a bus from Hanoi to Hai Phong, then a shuttle bus to the ferry, followed by another bus to Cat Ba Town where we planned to base ourselves. It being Tet, we got badly stung at the shuttle bus connection and were charged around 400,000 each when it sould have been 160,000 dong to get to the island. We were told that this was the last bus of the day! The same woman tried it again on the return journey and told us we had to get on the back of a motorbike to take us to the connecting bus to Hanoi. I got stroppy (yes me - can you believe it?) and said there was no way I was getting on the back of a motorbike and my ticket was clearly bus-boat-bus!After much standing off, she spoke to the driver of the bus we had just alighted, there was an exchange of money from her to the driver, and we were taken to our connecting bus. Needless to say, we found Vietnam tiring because of this and always having to be vigilant.
Cat Ba Town at Tet was like arriving at Scarborough on Boxing day. However, although not too pretty on the eye, the surroundings were impressive as you can see on the pictures. To keep up the holiday spirit we had our first night out on the razzle dazzle with a bunch of ex-pats all working in China and on their holiday. The alcohol helped to blur the fact that the cafes and food were pretty shoddy, with local wildlife (rats) playing close by on the central reservation or under the freezer in the cafe. Hello to Jacob, John and Happy Jack, who looks good in everything he wears. We had some very interesting conversations on the psyche of the Chinese nation.
So off to Slo Pony to get the "beta" on the climbing. For around 15 pounds each we've booked onto a boat (junk) to take us out to Lan Ho Bay to do some kayaking in the morning, lunch on the boat and then to be be dropped off on Moody's beach for the afternoon to climb.
Now it's all getting better! Lan Ho bay was beautiful - just as I wanted it to be as I'd never been in that kind of landscape before. We passed masses of floating villages, all with skinny dogs marooned as protectors. I was quite surpried at just how populated an area it was as my experience of sea kayaking has been one of a greater distance from people and settlements. Greg and I shared a double kayak and I'm surprised I could climb after as the weight of the paddle was tiring me out to lift , never mind actually paddle. We had a great morning on "flat as a pancake sea" - not a bouyancy aid in sight! Lunch was great and really chilled out and we swapped stories and travel tales with our fellow customers. Turned out we had mutual friends - bizzare.
Now for some climbing! The routes at Moody's Beach were excellent, it's just a pity there was only 5 of them there.Really sharp positive rock that was finger cutting. We both admited to be concerned about slipping as it would macerate as opposed to scratch! Really attentive about watching that the rope didn't rub against sharp edges as we lowered each other off. Check out the pictures on the Picasa gallery. We both knocked off three 5as and one 6a - great climbing and our confidence is building. The next day we hired push bikes and rode out to Butterfly Valley which was around 16Km inland. Here's a link to a picture of the crag.
www.27crags.com/crags/butterfly-valley-cat-ba-vietnam/topos.
This is where we sort of got our arses whipped.Much stiffer climbing we felt for the grade, longer routes and a bit more rambling. The rock was great, however, and the location peaceful with cows grazing in the meadow below. Not much in the lower grades, so we were climbing mostly 6A and a few 5s. Needless to say, out of 6 routes attempted, we only managed to complete 2 There's a maillon there of ours on Hanoi to Rome Express if anyone is going?
Here's a U-Tube link to to one of the routes that was comp0leted and not fallen off as in the video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vVPz0-jqAM&feature=player_embedded
Woops!We didn't take pictures on this day, hence all the links to other people's sites.
Overall, Butterfly Valley was the only climbing venue that could be reached independantly without chartering a boat, even then you need transport of some form. Although, there was loads of climbing on selected karst islands and beaches, it would turn into a very expensive week trying to pick them all off. We both felt that if you were operating at 6C above (French) then there would be a much wider selection and more to do.
Anyhow, at least we can say we have climbed in Vietnam!
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